The unexpected Albania

August 9, 2016 - August 20, 2016

Visited cities: Bar (Mno), Ada Bojana (Mno), Valona, Zvernec, Dhermi, Argirocastro, Permet, Tirana

Albania is definitely the future of Italian holidays: it's close, it's cheap and above all it's wonderful. Fortunately, for the moment, is still little considered and is not among the most popular destinations so, if your dream is to get away from crowded beaches and bar where you pay 8 euros a small beer, this is definitely the place for you.

Unfortunately, the stereotype that persecutes this country is still "a dangerous place with bad people". Nothing could be more wrong! It is certainly a country with its problems but with a great desire to change.
The hospitality of these people has exceeded all expectations. On more than one occasion we have been welcomed and helped with great enthusiasm, they have a boundless passion for Italy and Italians. They watch our TV programs and that's why most of the population speaks very well our language. They feel honored and proud of the fact that Albania begins to be considered a paradise destination for its wild landscapes.

Our journey started directly from Milan. We took a car and in about 20 days we went through Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania and, on the way back, also Bosnia and Herzegovina. Within this blog I will not tell of all the places we have visited because it would be pointless: Slovenia was just passing through, Croatia is not advised because it's expensive and crowded (it made us lose a lot of time ... and money), Bosnia and Montenegro would deserve a separate trip (I'll just mention a couple of names. Maybe next time I'll spend more time on these two places)

I highly recommend taking advantage of this moment to visit these wonderful places. In a few years they will be invaded by the tourism; some cities are already growing exponentially ruining everything that makes Albania a special place.
However, I do not recommend getting there by car from Italy unless you love to drive. It was a very long journey, which, in my opinion, had nothing to offer. Furthermore, driving in Albania is not one of the easiest and most peaceful. If you decide to go there by car, do not forget to take out INSURANCE for this country (I speak from personal experience !!) otherwise opt for a plane to Tirana with car hire on site or a ferry to Valona.

Bar (Montenegro)

Bar is young, lively and can be called a big city.

Montenegro has never been our destination. It is inevitable, however, that, starting from Italy by car to Albania, you have to pass from there and plan to stop at least one night to break the journey a bit.
And, as it happens with all the inevitable and unplanned things, Montenegro turned out to be a beautiful surprise.

The first impression of this unexplored country has not been the best: the coast is very similar to that of the neighboring country but what stands out here are the very high prices of petrol (even because Montenegro is the only one of the Eastern States we have visited where Euro has been introduced) and a series of seaside towns made of modern puildings, crowded bathing establishments, traffic and luxory cars.

We stay in a modern apartment found on airbnb with really nice owners and not far from the highlight area or the road that runs along the beach that in the evening is filled with stalls, lights, children and families in relax. Definable the "Riccione" of Montenegro, I suggest Bar to those who are looking for a lively city that offers bars, nightlife and entertainment with a surrounding area full of white beaches.

Ada Bojana (Montenegro)

Ada Bojana is a must: strange, different, suggestive and fantastic

Ada Bojana is a small triangle-shaped island bathed on one side by the Adriatic Sea and on the other by the Bojana River which flows into the sea, connected to the mainland by a small bridge.

When we arrived we found out that Ada Bojana is not only a heavenly place but it is also an ideal destination for the nudists of Europe who stay in the nearby purpose-built campground.
Ada Bojana has struck us first of all for the beach that overlooks the delta of the river: the public area is not frequented by nudists and here it is fun to swim for the currents (light and not dangerous) that take you from one side to the other.It's even possible to get something to drink in the beach bars.
The most evocative area, however, is surely the river whose landscape reminds a bit of the Mississippi banks, with lush and marshy vegetation on the shores where wonderful houses have been built on stilts with direct access to the river for the boats of the wealthy owners. In addition to the houses there is also a long series of fish restaurants really beautiful and evocative.

Valona

Valona or Vlore is a port city, spread along the coast and can be described with a single word, CONTRADICTION.

Although absolutely not beautiful, the city is fascinating for the contrasts between large and luxurious hotels, apartments, beautiful buildings and the absence of paved roads. Wandering through the city you have to pay attention to holes in the street, open yards, pipes in sight, flocks of sheep passing in front of the halls of the most luxurious hotels.
We only stayed there one night so we only saw the city in the evening, not fully enjoying it.

Zvernec

Zvernec is a wonderful place: to make it so special there are a ruined bridge over a lake and beaches as big as empty.

Zvernec is famous for its monastery that in itself does not deserve absolutely (I think that the last year they have restored it), but the surrounding area is truly incredible: the isolated place, the rickety and ruined wooden bridge and the local old man who replaces the last part of the collapsed bridge with his boat (he pulls it clinging with his arms to a wire) makes everything really impressive.

Around Zvernec you can also find a series of really wonderful beaches: of course they are not equipped or marked but just follow the paths that lead to the sea and you will end up alone in the middle of sandy expanses. The strangest thing is that you can park your car right on the beach.

From the beach then a path leads to the top of a mountain from which you can admire a truly incredible landscape.

Dhermi

Dhermi is mainly a not relaxing place for young people but if you know where to go you can find some quiet places that really deserve.

Before talking about Dhermi I have to make a small reference to the road that leads to this city. From Valona to Dhermi you have to cross the famous LLogara Pass, a truly marvelous nature reserve: we have not stopped for fear of being surprised by the night in the middle of nowhere but along the main road there are many typical restaurants / shelters and in some of them it's possible to plant a tent in their garden to enjoy a night under the stars. Highly recommended a stop in this magical place.

Dhermi initially impressed us. It was relatively crowded and messed up. The main area looks like a long road along the beautiful beach, a series of campsites and clubs piled on top of each other and young people having fun. The camp that we had booked turned out to be a tiny little area with lots of tents and so we threw ourselves in search of a new place.

After traveling up and down we finally found what we were looking for: Camping Paradise by Roland Koka (https://www.facebook.com/Camping-Paradise-887822957910974/). This little place is run by a wonderful little family who also lives in one of the tents they make available. The price is about € 5 and you can enjoy spacious (and a little dirty) tents, bathrooms (they are small and uncomfortable, but still bathroom) and a restaurant (with fresh fish) really good managed by the same family. Strengths are hospitality and tranquility. For those interested, moreover, from here it is not uncomfortable to reach the "life" on the main beach for a night drink.

He is the great Roland, interesting talks, excellent liquors drunk in company and lots of love. What I wrote on the arm means "thank you" in Albanian, or at least is what I thought (the spelling is completely wrong). I had written it on my arm so I could remember it whenever it was needed and it was this writing that attracted my new friend's attention.

The real pearl of Dhermi was Gjipe Beach: a paradisiacal and wild beach in a small gulf that can only be reached by walking, beautiful path on the way there, deadly on the way back. In addition to the beach there is a canyon that creeps into the mountain for hundreds of meters. At some point it is possible to continue only if a little equipped or brave. I suggest you to take a leap
On the beach there are two small kiosks that serve as restaurants specialized in freshly grilled fish and a small campsite equipped with its own tents, bathrooms and common area with hammocks and tables. SPECTACULAR

Gjirokastra

It seems that the ancient city, perched on a hill overlooking the valley is amazing.

It was our third stop that unfortunately for unexpected reasons (dogs) we had to skip. Yes, DOGS! Along the highway we found 4 puppies less than a week old and we did not have to leave them there. Now (a year later) 2 of them stay with us and the other two found two wonderful families.

Vlore

Gotham

Leica

Libero

We just stopped to sleep down in the valley at the only campsite that we found in the area, the Girokaster Camping: a small family-run "camping", literally stands in the garden of this beautiful family that has equipped it with beautiful super modern and clean bathrooms.

Permet

Permet is authentic, folkloristic, stands on the bank of a spectacular river and really deserves a prolonged visit to savor the true Albanian life

Permet is, without any doubt, the city that we liked the most. The city has plenty of good and cheap bars and restaurants such as Hani i Kikes Restaurant and Antigonea. We have stayed at the super satisfactory Ramizi Hotel.

There are two main things that made this place even more beautiful:

The big stone: from here the view is breathtaking. It dominates the city and at sunset with a beer is when this place is at its best.

The Benje Thermal Baths: they are located about ten kilometers from Permet. They are natural spas within a canyon. There is a large puddle immediately at the entrance but continuing along the course of the river that stretches for kilometers there are many other pools of water: each of them is said to be curative of a certain part of the body. The more you go on, the less people you will find. Really wonderful

Tirana

Tirana is young and you can feel the scent of change and creativity.

Tirana was unfortunately / fortunately a must. The four puppies needed a "real" veterinarian and the only one was here.

Our stay in the capital has been very limited (one afternoon / night) and as a result I do not feel like giving a definitive judgment to this city. The impression, however, despite expectations, was absolutely positive. We have experienced an air of change and modernity typical of a European capital. I hope to have the opportunity to visit it better.